We’re not even at Thanksgiving yet, and people are bringing in their live Christmas trees, so it's time to address the issue. I'm not going to get sucked into the whole debate as to whether a live tree is
better for the environment then a cut tree, as there are reams of literature
supporting both arguments. I haven't actually had a tree for years, but if I did have one, I'd probably swing get one of the fantastic upscale charlie brown trees Marders is brining in this year.
However,
a live tree, which you bring into the house and then plant outside afterwards,
has the advantage of being dual purposed. It’s pretty once inside and then,
hopefully, will continue to do so outside. The trick is to follow the following
steps.
How big of a tree?
Jeff
Peters of JCP Landscaping says, ‘I do this for people all the time, it’s really
kind of easy, but the trick is to make sure you get the right size tree.”
According Phil Bucking, the owner of the Sag Harbor Garden Center, where Jeff
likes to get his trees, the best size to choose is a tree that’s about 4-5 feet
tall including the height of the root ball. This means the tree is only going
to be 3-4 feet tall when planted, but it’s the easiest size to handle. If you
are looking to have a tree that sweeps the ceiling, maybe a live tree is not
the way to go. If you want something to plant in the yard, remember you have to
get it into and out of the house first, and that the taller the tree, the
heavier the root ball. Any tree with it’s roots in a ball of earth wrapped in
burlap is not an easy thing to manipulate up stairs and through doorways, and
if it’s larger then 5’, according to Jeff Peters, “You’re not getting them in
the front door.”
What kind of tree?
Although
Jeff prefers the Colorado Blue Spruce, as he feels the needles are stronger,
Mike Kusick from Marders is partial to Serbian Spruces. “Not everyone wants to
work that traditional shape into their landscape,” he adds, pointing out that
he’s also got a few fabulous blue Deodar Cedars that he’s presenting as
Christmas tree options. “They can’t stay in the house for very long as they are
more sensitive trees, but they’re more attractive and easier to work into a
landscape.” He also pointed out that although the deodars only about 3’ high,
they were on sale for 40% off, which made them seem so much taller. Phil
Bucking carries both Norway and Blue Spruce and White Pines, but that he thinks
the Norways are the best at acclimating
How do you care for the
tree?
Once
you’ve figured out how to get it in, the best technique for ensuring it’s
survival is to place it in a galvanized tub, or any container that will hold
water. It’s a living, breathing thing you’ve wrestled into the house, and
you’re going to have to give it plenty of water to keep it alive, so make sure
it’s in a waterproof container. Jeff uses bricks to balance and stabilized the
tree in the tub, and says that he’s had great success with trees that have been
in the house up to a week, longer then that and it starts to be too stressful
for the tree. He does say that they will start dropping needles a little, “but
once they’re outside they seem to recover.” He asks that the root balls of the trees
are watered daily and the branches are misted as well, since the house is going
to be much warmer and drier then the tree is accustomed to. Mike Kusick has the
same advice, although he has a new product to help the tree survive the stress
of being inside. Instead of guessing how much and how often to water, he
recommends treating the trees with an organic, sugar-based product called
Vacation in which you soaks the tree’s root balls before bring them into the
house. “It helps the tree deal with the dehydration stress it’s undergoing and we’ve
had great success with it with cut trees.” According to Mike, you only have to
treat the live tree once and you don’t have to water it for the rest of the
week. Care wise, Phil Bucking has
the best advice of all, “If you have a shed or garage that you can use as a transition
place for the tree to go for a day or two after being inside, before it goes in
the ground, those trees have the best chance of survival.”
Where’s the tree going to
live after Christmas?
“It
would be great if people knew where they wanted the tree planted first, but
most times,” says Jeff, “I just
get a call telling me to go get a tree and then we have to figure it out
later.” The idea of digging the hole while the ground is not frozen is a
no-brainer for landscape professionals, but most people don’t think about it
until it’s New Year’s Day, it’s freezing cold and they’re dragging a heavy tree
all over the frozen yard trying to find the ideal place. “People are very
particular about where they want their trees, and last year it was fine, but
the year before with all that snow. . .” Jeff trails off. As the Farmers
Almanac is predicting another long, cold and snowy winter this year, please figure
out where you want the tree placed before the ground freezes. Phil recommends
that you dig a hole that’s bigger then you need it to be, and to put the soil,
as well as a bag or two of compost, in a shed or a garage so that it doesn’t
freeze. Jeff uses Roots organic fertilizer when planting the tree, while Mike
prefers liquid kelp, which is also excellent for stressed trees, or Superthrive,
which has b vitamins to help plants establish roots.
All
in all it doesn’t seem that difficult, but follow the experts’ advice, because
if you don’t, as Phil Bucking adds, “You might as well get a cut tree because
your live tree is going to be just as dead.”
Move Aside Martha.
For
those of you who want to create your own holiday décor, Marders has two wreath-making
workshops on November 18th and December 2nd, with a third class tentatively scheduled
for the following weekend. Denise Kelly, one of their floral specialists, explained
that for the first workshop people would be working with dried on a grapevine base and for the second they'd be wiring a selection of precut greens onto a form to create their own, custom wreath, which they’d then decorate with pinecones and berries. “It’s really fun
to see how people respond to all the color and texture choices,” Denise says,
“every wreath is different, and they’re all really pretty.”
The
class is $45 for adults and $35 for children, which provides everything you
need to build the wreath, with ribbons and millimeter balls costing a little
bit more.
The
ribbon prices are based on width, length and complexity, but with 50 plus
ribbons to choose from, (and the most beautiful silver glittered baby breath
branches) its hard to not want them all. Places are limited, so sign up by
calling Marders at 537-3700.
Paige Patterson actually kind of lusts after the feather Christmas trees her father and Martha Stewart have.
